Elbrus climb

                                                                                             Mt.Elbrus

Undoubtedly, the best known and most alluring mountain in Russia is Elbrus (5621m/5642m), a dormant volcano, one of the "Seven Summits". The fact that it is the highest point in Europe suffices for many to go and climb it. Yet, this obvious attraction is not the main one, for Elbrus belongs to a handful of mountains with a very special and irresistible kind of beauty which lies in their shape and setting.. It stands 11 km north from the Main Range and exceeds its neighbours in height by 1200-2000m. The views from both the summits are breathtaking: to north it is a rolling carpet of pastures veiled by the blue haze of distance and on all the other sides the sea of snowy peaks. It is said that through the clear air of autumn you can see both the Black and Caspian seas.


THE CENTRAL CAUCASUS, in the heart of the Caucasus, is the highest part of the entire mountain system. Hard to access to the west because of Mount Elbrus and to the east by Mt. Kazbek, the central section branches off to the north and south into a series of complicated geological buttresses.

Elbrus Region or PRIELBRUSIE, the area around Mount Elbrus is a highly frequented area in the Central Caucasus reigon where many valleys converge into the Baksan valley, where the river flows. In this region you will find many legendary peaks such as Mt. Shkhelda (4,320 m), Mt. Chatin (4,368 m), Mt. Donguz-Orun (4,468 m), Mt. Ushba (4,710 m), and Mt. Elbrus itself (5,642 m), the highest peak in Europe. The area is easily reached from Mineralnye Vody with a good network of roads and the journey takes about four hours.

MT. ELBRUS dominates the Central Caucasus and has two which were originally separate volcano vents: the western peak (Zapadnaya) is the higher peak; the eastern peak (Vostochnaya) at 5,621m, has a crater 250m in diameter. The mountain is covered by a huge sheet of ice which covers some 145 sq kms and is reputed to be up to 400m thick. Often ferocious weather surrounds the mountain and there is permanent snow and ice cover year round. From the col that divides the two peaks the snow slopes descend to tongues of ice and crevasses lying in the many valleys that radiate from the mountain.

THE CLIMB OF MT. ELBRUS by the normal route is a long climb over a medium incline that requires good acclimatization but has no objective technical difficulties. The apparent simplicity of this route is deceptive though because it can be dangerous. Apart from the altitude, the highly variable weather and frequent violent storms combined with low temperature means that this ascent is a real high altitude adventure!

The average time to summit is from eight to ten hours for the ascent and about four hours for the descent. Crampons and ski poles are necessary for this climb and ice axes are useful for training purposes and extra safety. In autumn, winter and spring the incline above the Pastukhov rocks is covered with ice and can be dangerous. The summit plateau is itself is large and featureless and surrounded by steep drops. April, May and June are the best months for a ski descent, mainly from the col since there is a steepish traverse from there to the summit plateau.

Like all big mountains, the peaks of the Caucasus generate and attract their own weather, making conditions impossible to predict. To be prepared for a wide range of temperatures, from freezing nights and snowy, windy conditions, to bright sunshine intensified by high altitude, it is important to bring everything on the recommended equipment list.